The Leflaive family have been making wine in Puligny Montrachet for hundreds of years, and theirs is one of Burgundy`s very resonant names. But their outpost in Champagne, in Oger on the Cote de Blancs is a much, much more modern project, only properly kicking off in 2015. But as Valentin Leflaive notes, it was a natural enough move - after all, this is a family that know their Chardonnay and their Pinot Noir. He describes his goal as Champagne de Lieux, Champagnes with a sense of place, and many of the Leflaive bottlings are quite geographically specific. In the winery, an array of small vats allow for a much-more plot-by-plot vinification process. Champagnes are aged on lees, sometimes in vat, but often in Burgundy barrels which have been used to age the top crus of Puligny-Montrachet at Maison Olivier Leflaive. It adds an extra layer of depth and expression to some already complex Champagnes. (NT 30/09/24)