Emilio Moro grew up surrounded by grape growers. So he knew exactly what he was doing when he founded his eponymous bodega in the wine town of Pesquera del Duero. Seventy years on and things are on a bigger scale, but the model is the same – fine, traditionally-made expressions of the local Tinto Fino clone of Tempranillo. Emilio Moro remains family-owned, with the founder’s grandchildren Jose and Javier currently in charge, and the bodega is widely recognized as among the best in the DO.

Ribera del Duero is not always an easy place to cultivate vines. It lies at between 700-850 metres above sea level, and the growing season is short. Frost risk extends long into the season, and one cold snap can kill off budding vines. But there is a reason why Ribera del Duero has exploded in popularity since it was officially granted DO status in 1982. While summer daytime temperatures can touch 40 degrees, but these drop very sharply at night. And that provides the temperature shift essential to great wines.

Irrigation is permitted in Ribera del Duero, but Emilio Moro eschew it. They argue that irrigation changes the character of a vintage, and they prefer to let vintage variation show through naturally. While their winemaking remains very traditional, they have been at the forefront of technological developments in vineyard management. They have installed sensors which monitor factors such as humidity, temperature, ground conductivity and water absorption. For one thing, this reduces their environmental footprint, allowing them to use less water, less energy and less fertilizer. It also pinpoints any issues, and allows them a very focussed response. Ultimately this feeds back into very high-quality fruit. (NT 11/09/23)