Vega Sicilia: the pinnacle of Spanish winemaking

25 Feb 2016

Javier Ausas, the winemaker at Vega Sicilia

For a wine that is regarded as among the world's best, Vega Sicilia has obscure origins. It began in the 1860s as an attempt to make Bordeaux-style wines in Spain, but did not achieve instant renown. It went through various name changes, not becoming Vega Sicilia till the 20th century. For a long time it was sold in bulk, to be re-sold as Rioja. It wasn't until the 1920s that it became famous. Many of the original French varieties planted on the estate, such as Carmenere and Pinot Noir, have long since vanished, but descendants of the original Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot plantings still flourish. The final wine blends these with a greater part of local Tempranillo.

2011 was a hot year in Ribera del Duero, and the resulting Valbuena is ripe, round and elegant. In contrast, 2008 was a cooler year by Spanish standards; the resulting long growing season has imparted a fresh, mineral dimension to the power and complexity of the top-of-the-range Unico. The Reserva Especial is a blend of three consistent vintages of the Unico (in this release, 1996, 1998 and 2002) achieving a fascinating fusion of primary, secondary and tertiary elements.

Vega Sicilia has also strode forth from its Ribera homeland; among the winery's (relatively) newer projects is Pintia, from the region of Toro, further down the Duero valley. Pintia is also made from Tempranillo, but in the form of its local clone, Tinto de Toro; a powerful beast, but here skilfully tamed, with all the trademark elegance of Vega Sicilia. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available late spring 2016