2020 Dönnhoff: nature knows no lockdown

26 Oct 2021

A dream vintage in the cellar

The weather was the least of the Dönnhoffs' problems in 2020. After all, the season had gotten off to a good start. Winter rains had replenished groundwater. The sun was out, vines were showing signs of budding early, and it was time to get workers in the vineyards. But then pandemic set in; restrictions followed. Many of the Dönnhoffs' long-term workers weren't able to travel to them. Helmut Dönnhoff says they will be eternally grateful for the help of local students who jumped at the chance to spend time outdoors with 'the Nahe superstars', and learn vineyard craft. Summer was hot and dry. The logistics of harvest were a challenge, but the quality of the fruit coming in was not; Helmut says at the end of the day, they put 'a dream vintage in the cellar'.

He's not wrong; we were wowed when we tasted the 2020 Dönnhoff range. The wines are powerful but delicate, fine-boned but packing a punch. As Helmut says, 'they more than compensate us all for the challenges and unpleasantness of the year'.

At the dry end, Tonschiefer is beautiful, lime and orange; Kreuznacher Kahlenberg has an impressive attack full of lemon and peach. Oberhauser Leistenberg is poised and piercing, and is the Dönnhoffs' 'classic' Kabinett; the south-east facing Lesitenberg slope always makes a Kabinett. Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl is a Kabinett with a little more orange and wildflower. In Spatlese, Norheimer Kirschheck is aromatically glorious, with lemon and blossom and white peach; Hermannshohle is (at this stage) still restrained and stand-offish, but will open given time. Nothing in this range puts a foot wrong. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold, available now

Vintage Description Cs Sz Bt Sz Cs Bts Cs ib Cs inc Bt inc
2020 ready Donnhoff Riesling QbA (fruity style)
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6x 75cl 2 5 £66.00 £95.37 £18.95 Buy