Pontet-Canet, Mouton, Margaux, Figeac
Yesterday saw the release of the first First, with Mouton, the Wine Advocate's joint second highest scoring red. 2017 has all the strength and power of Latour, the elegance and class of Lafite and yet the blackcurrant and spice make it instantly recognisable as Mouton. Margaux followed today which Neal Martin says 'purrs like a Rolls Royce and will age with panache.' Their respective second wines are increasingly sought after.
But for those of us with more modest budgets, we have Pontet-Canet, one of Neal Martin's most intriguing wines, made by one of Bordeaux's most intriguing characters. The Tesseron family are pioneers, with their early adoption of biodynamics and now their brand new concrete vats, made from sand and gravel extracted from the exact spot where the building that contains them now stands. There is no electric power in this vat room - instead it runs on geothermal heating, so there is no pumping over and everything is punched down by hand. It's not surprising we found it powerful but not overworked, with real Pauillac charm.
In St-Julien, Las Cases and Ducru are true to form, but for us your money is better spent on their neighbours Leovilles Barton and Poyferre.
Over on the Right Bank, Angelus and Pavie always steal the headlines but it is Figeac which should warrant your attention. After being badly hit by frost, meaning production is down 50%, Figeac's meticulous attention to detail in the vineyard has paid dividends and here we have a worthy successor to their stunning 2015 & 16. This upward trajectory in recent vintages means Figeac is about the hottest and most sought-after property in Bordeaux right now - a chateau which lets its great terroir shine through, this is all about sophisticated charm rather than brute power. Matching Figeac's 20% price decrease is Conseillante. /ZA
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available 2020
