2016 Bordeaux: elegance and opulence

24 May 2017

2016 Gazin, Grand Mayne and Domaine de l`EgliseNicolas de Bailliencourt

The first release today was one of the most hotly anticipated of the vintage. With a Neal Martin score of 97-99 but 20% less volume released, Lynch-Bages is heavily in demand. We're still awaiting answers from a few customers who bought the 2015 but hope to have a little stock left for general sale. In the meantime, it's worth revisiting an earlier release, Lynch's neighbour Batailley, which looks ever better value in the context of the vintage at £210 per six.

After Lynch came the vastly improved St-Emilion, Grand Mayne. Owned by the Nony family since 1934, in 2015 they appointed Louis Mitjaville of Tertre Roteboeuf fame as consultant, and quality is transformed. With 94-96 points from Neal Martin, it looks like being one of the right bank's smarter buys in 2016.

As if a reflection of its owners, brothers Nicolas and Christophe de Bailliencourt, Gazin is a noble wine. The vineyard occupies the summit of the Pomerol plateau (according to a 2011 survey, including the highest point - commonly thought to be within Petrus), and has its largest acreage. Over the past dozen or so years - and especially since the appointment of winemaker Mickaël Obert from Clos l'Eglise - quality has soared and today it sits squarely in the top tier of Pomerol. Inevitably, the price is catching up with its new-found status.

From lower down the Pomerol hierarchy, we have the Casteja family's Domaine de l'Eglise. The 2016 has more power and substance than usual, but it retains its balance and has lovely fruit. It's a very solid Pomerol for the price.

The Bordelais are now donning shades and heading off to Cap Ferret for the Ascension long weekend. According to folklore, if it's sunny on Ascension Day, it will be a warm summer. The forecast is good. /AR

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available 2019