2015 Dom Pérignon: ‘terrific energy’

Dom Pérignon was the original Champagne prestige cuvée. It was initially intended for export markets; it was an instant success when launched in London in 1935, and again in New York the following year. The lustre of that first success has never worn off. It is made from the best grapes selected in 17 grand cru sites, and one single premier cru: Hautvilliers, where in the 17th century Benedictine monk and winemaking innovator Dom Pierre Pérignon toiled. It is only produced as a vintage cuvée, swerving the weakest years. It is made in a deliberately reductive (oxygen-free) style, with the base wines being vinified in steel rather than wood, on the grounds that this contributes to a longer life. That also means that Dom Pérignon can take a little longer to come round than some lesser Champagnes.

2015 was a dramatic vintage in Champagne, with an unusually cold spring succeeded by a long spell of heat and drought. August was the hottest it had been for over 50 years, and when harvest came the Pinot grapes in particular were powerful and structured. Chef de Cave Vincent Chaperon explains that at Dom Pérignon the aim at harvest is always to pick grapes at the threshold of ripeness, 'on the edge between freshness and richness'. He seems to have achieved that in spades in 2015; 2015 DP captures its year magnificently in a combination of generosity and tension. /NT

'The 2015 Dom Pérignon is terrific. Bright and poised, the 2015 shows terrific energy. Citrus peel, white flowers, mint, white pepper and slate all race across the palate. There's gorgeous tension and backbone here, with bright saline notes that extend the mid-palate and finish. This is a fine showing in a vintage that has proven to be tricky. I am intrigued to see how the 2015 develops in the coming years.'

96 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, March 2024