2013 Lafite, Mouton, Angelus, Pavie

And stablemates

The most popular releases to date are those for which we didn't need to think too much about the price. Unfortunately, that's never going to be the case with the first growths. Much has already been written about Lafite: it's the cheapest vintage in the market, it's 24% cheaper than the similarly scored 2011, it's around £2000 cheaper than comparable older vintages, and so on. We think the price looks fair rather than cheap but as much as anything it's a play on the Chinese market: 'Lafite's premium over the other First Growths was once 129% but has been in steady decline since and is now at 45%. This premium is reliant upon Chinese demand; the question is whether that demand is still there,' to quote Liv-ex yesterday.

As to the (more or less) newcomers to this exalted group, Mouton looks the most interesting. The Baron Philippe de Rothschold team has once again pulled out all the stops - including having nearly 850 people picking the grapes at one stage. And I'm not alone: 'I think [Executive Director] Philippe [Dhalluin] has overseen possibly the pick of the First Growths with Chateau Mouton Rothschild,' reports Neal Martin, and the second wine has come from nowhere over the past few vintages: 'Don't tell anyone, but Le Petit Mouton has rapidly become the best second wine of a First Growth.'

Are they worth buying? That's for you to decide. /AR

Offered subject to confirmation for shipment spring 2016