2011 Droin Chablis en primeur

11 Jul 2012

2011 Droin Chablis en primeurWe have a real terroir year in 2011 and - with prices that have barely altered over the last five years - extraordinary value, especially at the top end.

The year had many things in its favour, including that precocious spring and a long growing season. But there were disadvantages too and lesser growers fell into a series of bear traps. 2011 needed an awful lot of work in the vineyard. The vines bounced back after 2010's small crop and wanted to produce a ton of fruit, which growers like Benoit Droin worked very hard to control. A cool, damp August raised disease pressure and accelerated weed and foliage growth as well as delaying harvest dates. It was the anticyclone in September that enabled the best producers to harvest ripe and healthy fruit that needed less sorting than in 2010.

Want white wines of immense class that will drink young or age really well? Droin provides us with those year after year and 2011 is a vintage that shows the importance of producer choice in Chablis. Take Benoit's 2002s: the village is still fabulous, with the premier crus at a peak and the grands crus almost ready. The 2011s will be drinking earlier than that, but you get the picture. Follow the producer; follow Benoit Droin. /CW

Chablis No oak. Classic smoky/chalky minerality with good vinosity.

Vaillons 20% oak. Lively and approachable - a crowd pleaser.
Vaucoupin No oak. Citrus - especially grapefruit - and concentrated.
Vosgros No oak. Austere and chalky, hint of kerosene. Serious.
Cote de Lechet No oak. One of Benoit's favourites. Whiff of cordite, already attractive.
Montmains 35% oak. Firm, tight, ageworthy. Hazelnuts and rapier minerality.
Fourchaume 50% oak. Broad and rich - the Puligny of Chablis. Low yield due to July hail.
Mont de Milieu 20% oak. Ripe pear, white flowers, grapefruit, the Condrieu of Chablis.
Montee de Tonnerre 25% oak. Smoky bacon, silex. Impressive but needs time.

Grand Cru Blanchot No oak. Smoky/buttery notes. Sheer purity for Chablis purists.
Grand Cru Valmur 45% oak. Vines only 14, but such energy from this great terroir.
Grand Cru Vaudesir 40% oak. Toast, menthol, broad, chalky. Like Fourchaume, but denser.
Grand Cru Clos 50% oak. Oyster shell, cordite, citrus. Fabulous.
Grand Cru Grenouille 50% oak. Spice, lemon zest, elegant. The Batard of Chablis.

The 2011 vintage wines are offered now, subject to confirmation, for shipment spring 2013. Click here to view the wines