It's Ascension Day in France today, time for the dust to settle on a frantic three days of en primeur action. For the Bordeaux proprietor, the campaign is all about long-term reputation-building. Just as it did back in the nineteenth century for the 1855 classification, price indicates your place in the pecking order. The higher the price, the greater the chateau's status. Unless the price is too high and the wine doesn't sell. Then it's humiliation. Of course, the advantage of releasing at the same time as everyone else is that no one notices if your wine flops. A point not missed by several of the owners who've come out this week.

The cream of yesterday's crop is a stunning pair from a wise head who always judges the market well - Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier. Chevalier Blanc is well established as one of the finest dry whites of Bordeaux. The 2011 is a classic. 'A blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Semillon, the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a very taut bouquet with scents of granite, lemon rind and a touch of white peach and chalk dust. Great focus and intensity although it takes time to unwind. The palate is medium-bodied with a lovely elegant white peach and a drop of wild honey, very good acidity and a caressing, vanilla-tinged finish that shows great length. This is better than the red this year. 93-95 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

For a taste of the Bernard magic at a fraction of the price, try Lespault-Martillac, which Olivier has been running since 2009. 'Containing 80-85% Sauvignon Blanc, this has a very vivacious pineapple and white peach-scented bouquet with superb delineation. The palate is crisp and harmonious with taut lime, lemon and peachy flavours on the entry and a crisp, very direct, linear, honeysuckle tinged finish that is very satisfying. Excellent. 88-90 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

Yesterday also saw the release of what, for many, is now the top red wine in Leognan. American owner Robert Wilmers wisely retained the services of the Sanders family from whom he bought Haut-Bailly in 1998 and, today, Veronique Sanders continues to manage her beloved property, whilst benefitting from Wilmers' considerable resources. 'The Chateau Haut-Bailly is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, which is close to 2000. Picking was from 9th September until the end of the month, around three weeks with 11-12 days of work. They thought they would end up picking in August as the season was so advanced! The bouquet is crisp and displays fine purity with blackberry, a touch of cassis, crushed stone and a touch of oyster shell. It has impressive delineation and focus. The palate is very well balanced and silky smooth in the mouth. It is tensile and animated, very composed and refined on the finish, perhaps more so than in the 2009 and 2010. It has lower alcohol than 2010 (13.0 degrees compared to 14.2). This is the style of Haut Bailly that I appreciate. 91-93 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

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Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request

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