Philippe Colin, Bernard Moreau, F & L Pillot, Paul Pillot
Chassagne is a large area of vines, still with a large proportion of red wine, though little is exported, which is a shame. Modern reds are considerably less rustic than they used to be. But the whites have changed - they are distinct from Puligny, but clearer, more precise than ever and yet still rich and full, generous even. Part of this is down to the generational change. Unlike policemen, who are now getting older, Chassagne vignerons are getting younger. We are still exploring the joys of the commune and recruiting the best we can find.
So it is with considerable fanfare that we introduce the fabulous wines of yet another Colin. I suppose it's only natural to associate the name of Colin with high quality given who else we deal with. It's the third year we've tasted at Domaine Philippe Colin and finally we have an allocation. The domaine has only been in existence since 2004 and the cellars are brand new, not so characterful, but immaculately clean and ordered. The wines are precise and do have considerable character, though where Philippe can be reserved at first the wines are exuberant and utterly complete. The various vineyard sites are clearly delineated in the wines. An instant favourite. You should certainly consider this domaine.
As ever a visit to Alex at Domaine Bernard Moreau is as illuminating for the chatting as it is for the tasting. And that's not to in any way disparage the wines here for - as you know - we truly love them. In fact we love them so much that we left the Taupenot-Merme tasting in Vosne a little early so we could get down here for the tasting. Words like vivid, fresh, mineral, honeysuckle, citrus and firm pepper the tasting notes. Really super wines.
A brace of Pillots follow, the first is Fernand & Laurent, who provide our Chassagne red, though I wish we had more. Their wines showed really well last week and that echoes our previous experience. Very fine wines.
Last visit of the day was to Domaine Paul Pillot, where Thierry spoiled us with an extended tasting and a wide-ranging discussion. Apart from the brilliant wines, Thierry is notable for his desire to learn, to meet new people and for his openness, which is still unusual in the region. He is great mates with Alex Moreau and indeed the wines share a certain DNA, though are very distinctive. Thierry's wines show amazing energy and drive. So an excellent final tasting for what has been a great day until we drive out of the Pillot yard. And turn left. /CW
Tomorrow
Cote Chalonnaise
