Arlaud, Dujac Fils & Pere, Lambrays, Lucie & Auguste Lignier
An upstart village for many of the Vosne and Gevrey aristocracy but packed with very talented growers. Four of the best below all performed exceptionally well in 2010.
Since we seem to be meeting the Domaine Arlaud siblings in rotation, I can only hope for next year that Berthille is as good looking as both her brothers. Romain was guide this year and able to show us through a range of wines whose tannins and structure were spookily reminiscent of the Fourrier range five days earlier. Wines here are mineral with pretty fruit and those amazing textures.
As John Gilman says in View from the Cellar about Dujac: 'simply say "yes" to anything that is offered, as there is not one wine in the range from this vintage that is not going to be an absolute treasure to have in the cellar a decade or two down the road!' 2010 is a fabulous vintage for a house like Dujac and its wines of elegance.
Thierry Brouin at Domaine des Lambrays must have been in place for longer than Alec Ferguson - and is at least as successful. We've pretty much seen the end of the 1er cru from this address now, which is a shame considering how good it was, but the vines are all old enough to be grand cru these days. The villages and grand cru both showed a lot of attack and masses of energy, together with fine tannins and freshness.
The 2010 vintage was absolutely nailed by Kellen and viticulteur Baptiste at Domaine Lucie and Auguste Lignier. With all fruit clearly picked à point and some brilliant decision making in the cellar, this is easily the best suite of wines from this domaine since its inception. The wines have the finest textures imaginable but are also perfumed, mineral and fresh. /CW
Tomorrow
Chambolle & Vosne
Thursday 26 January
2010 Burgundy barrel sample tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2010 Burgundy en primeur purchases over £500
