2018 La Mission Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan)

Still backward and knitted down, but this is an exceptional Mission Haut-Brion that is packed full of precisely-cut cassis and bilberry fruits, shot through with brighter, juicier redcurrant and raspberry notes. The flavours stretch out through the finish, gripping on, helped by a slate texture that becomes more apparent as the immediate hit of fruit and tannins softens. Floral perfume in evidence as it softens. 97 points

The 2018 La Mission Haut-Brion is beautiful and expansive from the first taste. Dark cherry, mocha, herbs, licorice, rose petal and mint open effortlessly. All the elements are so well balanced. Although the 2018 is quite easy to appreciate at this stage, it also has terrific energy and more than enough verve to develop positively for several decades. 94 points

The 2018 La Mission Haut-Brion was double decanted and assessed after two hours, and the over the following 24 hours compared directly with – what else? – Haut-Brion. They were initially poured blind. This has retained a very perfumed and hedonistic bouquet of black fruit and pressed violets, and less of the graphite that I picked up out of barrel; touches of ash/fireside hearth develop with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, and quite structured, more so than the Haut-Brion. There is a brightness here that I really like. Vivid, animated and brimming with energy and still incredibly persistent on the finish. A fabulous La Mission Haut-Brion that deserves several years in bottle, and though I would not rank it alongside, say, the 1955 or 1989, it is a magnificent Pessac-Leognan. 97 points