2018 Hudelot-Noellat Vosne Malconsorts

Richer purple with a heady nose, all three Vosne 1ers crus are so different. The oak is present but happily balanced, and there is a wealth of gorgeous concentrated fruit, cooler than the nose initially suggested. Lots of oak but it is being digested nicely and will not dry out the wine. Three barrels, all to be bottled in magnums. 93-96 points

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru has a more refined, mineral-driven, slightly earthier bouquet compared to Les Suchots, offering a mixture of red and black fruit, bay leaf and a touch of baking powder. The palate is medium-bodied with a core of candied red fruit, quite plush and very sensual. Orange and mango notes permeate the lush, caressing finish. You could drink this now. One that will be too tempting once in bottle. 92-94 points

The 2018 Malconsorts is one of the riper wines in the lineup chez Hudelot this year, coming in at 13.8 percent, but everything works here together beautifully and the result is a very sappy and sexy wine. The bouquet delivers a flamboyant constellation of red and black raspberries, cocoa powder, musky floral tones, a beautiful base of minerality, cloves, nutmeg and a touch of nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and velvety on the attack, with a sappy core, great focus and grip, suave tannins and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. This is a gorgeous wine. Drink 2026-2065. 93+ points

As usual, the 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is the most reserved premier cru in the cellar, unwinding slowly in the glass with aromas of cherries, berries and cassis mingled with notes of grilled squab and smoked meats. On the palate, it`s full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with a deep and concentrated core that`s still youthfully tight-knit. This is a Malconsorts with a brilliant future. 94-96 points

Noticeable but not dominant wood frames the restrained if spicy aromas of po ached plum, black cherry, violet and Asian-style tea. There is excellent intensity to the muscular middle weight plus-sized flavors that culminate in a balanced, complex and sneaky long mineral-inflected finish. This is not quite as powerful as usual but it`s definitely finer. 91-94 points