2018 Fonroque (St-Emilion)

One of the more aromatic wines St-Emilions in 2018, this is rippling with dark boysenberry and bilberry fruits, in a tighter register than usual. They have done a great job here, although I assume it`s from small yields as it feels concentrated. The tannins are finely-wrought, and have plenty of juice. This should age very well. Alain Moueix is still the head of winemaking, even though there are now new owners, and it remains biodynamic despite the challenges of 2018. Drink 2026 - 2040. 92 points

Certified organic and biodynamic.Deep cherry red. Intense Ribena-like blackcurrant aroma and ripe cherry. Very sweet and pure. Chewy but velvety texture. Rich, soft and supple, though everything is up front. Thick with tannins but not in the least astringent. Needs to slim down with some time in the bottle but it is nicely done with a relatively light hand in this vintage and plenty of vitality. Just a little bit simple overall but should gain interest with time. 16 points

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Fonroque (82% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc) gives up notions of preserved plums, baked blackberries and dried herbs with hints of raspberry pie, underbrush and black tea. Full-bodied and laden with black fruit, it has loads of red fruit brightness in the mouth with soft, rounded tannins and a refreshing finish. 91-93 points

This estate was sold midway through the 2017 season, so this is the first full vintage for the new owners, Hubert Guillard, who made his money in insurance. It has a rather pretty nose of black raspberry, scented with notes of bay leaf and menthol. The palate is elegant and refined, with a gentle and harmonious texture, opening the door to a silky substance through the middle. There is perfumed black cherry here, a little less mentholated than it appeared on the nose, and showing a little more texture than I was expecting. It comes underpinned by some fine-boned tannins which fe el elegant, silky and open, broad and yet tightly knit together. This feels more substantial than it did in days gone by, with a more confident structure. A really smart step up for Fonroque here. 92-94 points