The Lisini 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia is focused and precise, and yet it also shows a layered and very generous display of dark blackberry fruit and summer ripe plum. It delivers good contouring with a frame of spice, cedar and sweet tobacco around a soft and supple core. However, if I describe this wine as rich and concentrated, I don`t want to get ahead of myself because, in fact, the end result is quite streamlined, tight and even dusty. Ugolaia has a few surprises up its proverbial bottle sleeve in this 8,000-bottle release. 94 points

Ugolaia is a 1ha southeast-facing single vineyard. The terracotta-coloured soil is rich in marine fossils. After ageing in Slavonian oak botti for three years, the wine is finished in chestnut casks for six months, giving a polished wood sheen to the wine. Toothsome apricot, red plum and persimmon pervade the palate without weighing it down, the fruit offset by a pronounced mineral flintiness and accent of red liquorice. Layers of fine, powdery tannins keep its voluptuousness in check, as does underlying sneaky acidity. 96 points