Brilliant straw. Mineral-accented aromas of quince, tangerine and smoky minerals, plus hints of jasmine, iodine and brioche. Silky and tightly focused on the palate, offering concentrated orchard fruit, citrus fruit and honeysuckle flavours underscored by intense minerality. The strikingly long, sappy finish shows lingering stoniness and superb focus and tenacity. 94 points

The 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc incorporates slightly less Grenache Blanc than normal and has more Bourboulenc and Picpoul in the blend. As always, it didn’t go through malolactic fermentation and was raised all in stainless steel. Hitting 13.6% natural alcohol, its medium-gold color is followed by lots of apple, lemon curd and citrus-like fruit characteristics that give way to more spice, toast and minerality with time in the glass. Vibrant, fresh and borderline racy, while not being lean, it’s an outstanding white that will benefit from a year in bottle and have a graceful evolution for another decade or more. As I commented in my recent retrospective article, Clos des Pape is one of the reference point estates for traditional, age-worthy Châteauneuf du Pape. 91 points