The 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Cru has tasted well in the past. This felt a little closed on the nose and Roman Taupenot himself suggested that it might be amidst a closed phase. The palate is sweet and ripe and certainly more open for business: vibrant raspberry and cranberry fruit, black pepper, clove and cedar towards a nicely structured finish. Give this another year in bottle because it just needs time to flower. Tasted at Flint Wines’ Taupenot-Merme retrospective. 92 points

Here the expressive nose is a bit more deeply pitched as it offers up a pretty mix of blue and black pinot fruit, earth and a hint of underbrush. On the palate this is also quite lush and very round with equally good volume and concentration, all wrapped in a dusty, mouth coating and balanced finish. This should also be approachable and enjoyable young yet reward up to a decade of cellar time. 90 points