Its 12 grams of sugar barely noticeable as such and its 13.9% alcohol (just under that of the corresponding `Vieilles Vignes`) not in the least, Zind-Humbrecht’s 2009 Pinot Gris Rotenberg features toasted almond, subtly-caramelized peach, and quince in a generously juicy, fruit-forward display that leads one to imagine there can be no reason to defer gratification. That said, if you follow this for 8-10 years you may be surprised. 90 points