2006 Comtes Lafon Volnay Champans

Last tasted as an approximation to the final assemblage from cask (one-third new), the Lafon 2006 Volnay Champans (from mostly very old vines) brims with bright, sappy red currant and red raspberry; carries faintly but nobly fungal as well as forest floor notes onto the palate; and finishes with an enticing, penetratingly persistent layering of fresh fruit, mineral, animal elements, a hint of white pepper adding to the impression of invigoration. This should be worth hanging onto for another couple of years before opening but I still expect it will be best enjoyed within half a dozen. 91 points