The 2004 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico (375-milliliter) opens to slightly musky aromas of moist earth and button mushroom with dried cherry and blackberry preserves at the back. This is a long and silky expression. Winemaking reflects the same process used to make Amarone, only the fermentation is blocked to preserve some of that bitter-sweetness. The name Recioto comes from the local dialect word for `ears` (reccie) because the wine is made with the shoulders of the grape clusters that tend to ripen first and have more residual sugar as a result. The finish imparts tarry licorice, dried fruit and bitter chocolate. The drinking window here is wide open for sure. 95 points