2004 Ducru-Beaucaillou (St-Julien)

`One can`t say enough about the efforts Bruno Borie is pouring into this wonderful estate that I have often called the `Lafite Rothschild of St-Julien.` An undeniable success, the 2004 Ducru boasts sweet aromas of creme de cassis, spring flowers, pain grille, licorice, and road tar. This pure, medium-bodied wine possesses moderately high tannin, superb concentration, good sweetness, and low acidity. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 25 years. 93 points

The 2004 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted for a few years. Now at 17-years of age, it has a delineated, tertiary, tobacco-scented nose where secondary scents are playing the major roles. Cigar humidor, autumn leaves and stewed black tea. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, saline and marine-influence, moderate weight, perhaps missing the complexity that Ducru-Beaucaillou delivers in great vintages, so the finish is a bit conservative and correct. If you like classic Saint-Julien, the 2004 will appeal to you and it should give another 15 years of drinking pleasure. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the chateau. 92 points