Unlike other Chateauneuf-du-Papes where the mention of a lieu-dit indicates a special or separate cuvee, Vieux Telegraphe`s vineyards all sit on Le Crau, a high, exposed slope covered in the galets or pudding stones. These slopes with their tight pruned, ground hugging vines (and if you`ve been there in February in a full-on mistral you`ll know why) are what enables the Bruniers to harvest early most vintages. Daniel and Frederic have made many innovations during their time in charge, and have shown themselves to be astute in business too; reassuring when a sharp brain is as usefull as winemaking creativity. Their purchase of Pallieres in Gigondas was masterly and the restraint showed in the eventual deal indicative that they think only in the long term. (CW 20/03/08)