San Leonardo is one of the emblematic wines of north Italy. Made in the shadow of the Dolomites, the mountains that span Italy’s far north, it is a Bordeaux blend that nods to the SuperTuscans. As Monica Larner puts it, ‘Sassicaia and San Leonardo seem like brothers separated in childhood’. We think of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Carmenere as French or international varieties, but in Trentino they have been cultivated for long enough that locals think of them as indigenous.

In the 1970s, Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga returned to his family estate, inspired by his wine studies abroad and experience in Tuscany. With the help of his friend Giacomo Tachis (the late, legendary winemaker of Sassicaia fame), Carlo set about planting new vineyards and rationalizing existing ones, altering vine training and lowering yields. He knew he had a perfect site. Tenuta San Leonardo lies in the Adige River valley; it is sheltered from the worst of the Alpine weather, but enjoys a wide differential between day and night temperatures. The Ora del Garda wind is pretty constant, drying leaves and protecting the vines from fungal disease.

These days, Carlo enjoys a well-deserved retirement; his son Anselmo carries the torch for San Leonardo into the next generation, and is making some very fine wines. (NT 15/08/23)