Victoria was a boom state for winemaking in the 19th century. Decline would follow, and latterly revival. Through it all, one constant has been Tahbilk, on the scene since 1860. Their presence in the Goulburn Valley makes that the oldest region in the state with a continuous history of viticulture.

It was founded as ‘Chateau Tahbilk’. ‘Chateau’ was there, of course, to give it European cred, and wasn’t dropped till the year 2000. These days it’s ‘Tahbilk’. It has frontage on the Goulburn River, with vineyards on the river valley slopes, and estate hinterland in the backwater creeks of Nagambie Lakes. The Purbrick family acquired the estate in 1925, and have owned it ever since, with fifth-generation Hayley Purbrick now running the show.

Tahbilk has a diverse range of grape varieties and styles, with Shiraz and Marsanne as their flagships – more northern Rhone domaine than Bordeaux chateau. There’s an icon Shiraz from ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines planted in 1860, and their 1927 vines Marsanne is an early-harvested style of Marsanne from very old vines which ages phenomenally into dry but honeyed complexity. (NT 21/08/23)