If Nebbiolo is the king of Piemonte then Dolcetto is often regarded as a poor cousin usually relegated to the poorest sites with the least chance of ripening. But a few producers have experimented with planting Dolcetto in the better sites, none more successfully than Attilio Pecchenino in the commune of Dogliani. In 2005, the commune gained DOCG status, largely because of the work of Attilio and his family.

But a love for and affinity with Dolcetto doesn`t preclude a serious dalliance with Nebbiolo; the family now has vines in the Barolo commune of Monforte d`Alba and makes a superb Langhe Nebbiolo from Dogliani itself. (AR 06/09/11)