A very nice looking house from the outside with a sweeping double staircase up to the first floor entrance. Extensive cellars below complete that. Generational change continues to sweep through the region and here we are hosted by Thibault the son. Not everything has changed though and the oak regime remains at 35% new. Nor has the family demeanour altered. Thibault is as understated as his father. Much discussion around corks here. New Zealanders aren`t the only ones deeply hacked off with cork producers and Thibault has changed to Normacorc Premium, a synthethic closure guaranteed to keep wine in top condition for a minimum of 60 months after insertion. The reds we tried were both very pretty with silky palates and not at all heavy. The whites - a lot more of them - all had in common a Mandarine note of ripe Chardonnay, were savoury, crisp and balanced. The wines were consistently well made across the board, with even the young vine Puligny Pucelles and Batard-Montrachet (11 year old replantings) showing very well. The Batard has real heft without being weighty, fresh flowers and is very long indeed. But my favourite was the Romanee. It was slightly reduced from recent racking, but an absolute stormer. (CW 20/11/08)
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