Briona is the southern gateway to the Sesia Valley, and there have been Castaldis here for hundreds of years. In the past, grapes were something they cultivated and sold on their family farm alongside the rice and the livestock. But in 1996 Francesca Castaldi took the plunge, and started up a proper, small winery. Latterly she has been joined by her son Marco, who has picked up winemaking experience as far away as Australia. Together they release their flagship wine under the (tiny) local Fara DOC. It is an exquisite, savoury red, saline and herbal, with mellow notes of cherry and flower. Their `Bigin` is not a large visitor from Scotland, but a younger, delicious, more fruit-forward style of pure Nebbiolo. (NT 25/01/21)