Ever since their move from Italy generations ago, the Usseglio family have embraced the winemaking traditions of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. 2018 is the seventy-year anniversary of the foundation of the domaine and sees the release of one of the best vintages they've made. They fully exploited the weather conditions to make a set of pure and mineral-fresh wines that are both delicious and ageworthy. They always do a green harvest to leave between 6-9 bunches per vine and they do a lot of sorting - in fact three triages. The first is by the small group of highly trained pickers, secondly on the tractor and thirdly back at the cellar.
Then there is diversity. Since 1948 when they started buying land for themselves, the domaine has grown to encompass every part of Chateauneuf, giving them plots in every terroir and elevation ideal for their four main varieties. Then back in the cellar the attention to detail continues with an increase in destemming and a carefully studied formula of different sizes and materials for the fermentation and maturation vessels, ranging from small numbers of barriques up to very large volume concrete tanks. The intensity of fruit and finesse of texture across the board are both exciting and seductive and they wear their southern ripeness lightly and with considerable charm.
Then there is focus. The gorgeous Chateauneuf tradition, which draws its quality and identity from across the commune, can be contrasted with the concentrated and very pure Mon Aieul, which is 100% Grenache from three plots whose vines are all over 100 years old and which sees no oak. Finally the Reserve des Deux Freres, entirely aged in oak of varying size and age, and again 100% Grenache, is a small selection from a limited range of barrels. /CW
Offered subject to confirmation; available autumn 2018
