Precision, intensity, depth
Austria's very finest
Austria's Wachau wine region is not large; it is made up of vineyards on or around the banks of the Danube, on the 36km stretch between the towns of Melk and Krems. It produces only a small fraction of Austria's total wine output, but is its most prestigious wine region, responsible for many of the country's best wines. What makes it so special? A lot of it is to do with the vineyards, with many steep, south-facing riverside terraces on granite and slate soils. The climate has an impact, with unusually large variations in day and night temperatures. And some credit, of course, must also go the local winemakers.
The sleek, modernist winery of F.X. Pichler belies the fact that the Pichlers have been making wine in Wachau for 5 generations. Their story goes back to 1898, but in 1971 Franz Xaver (F.X.) Pichler took over the family winery in Oberloiben and immediately made his mark. The newly renamed F.X. Pichler winery was to stand at the forefront of the Austrian quality revolution over the next 30 years; the Pichlers quickly gained worldwide recognition for their pure, intense Rieslings and Gruner Veltliners. In 2006 they appeared in Robert Parker's list of best 100 wineries in the world. In 1999 Franz Xaver's son Lucas took over vinification, but F.X. remained in the vineyards.
Not only have the Pichlers been in the game for a long time; their top wines come from steep, rocky terraces where vines have been cultivated since the 12th and 13th centuries. Each of the vineyards brings its own character. Wines from the Loibner Steinertal are racier, those from the Loibner Loibenberg lean towards the more opulent. The Durnsteiner Kellerberg is their very top site, responsible for wines of filigree elegance. And the vintages we're offering? While 2012 was a ripe year, with fuller wines, 2013 was cooler, with more lithe, supple wines. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately
