Le Soula on tasting tomorrow
In the foothills of the Pyrenees, high above the shores of the Mediterranean, fields of gnarled vines nestle amidst the wilderness of the Catalan garrigue. Anchored by deep old roots on granite slopes beneath the sunshine of southern France, cooled by altitude and scoured by the Tramontane winds, these scattered parcels of vines offer a compelling opportunity for the intrepid vigneron. At the turn of the 21st Century, pioneering Roussillon winemaker Gerard Gauby drew the potential of these high-altitude vines to the attention of his British importer, Mark Walford. Together they acquired neglected vineyards and an old farmhouse, and in 2001 created the first vintage of Le Soula.
Now entirely under Mark's sagacious stewardship, with South African Wendy Wilson as winemaker, the domaine comprises of 22 hectares under vine, with the oldest vines dating back to 1919. Organic since they were planted, and biodynamic since 2008, the vines of Le Soula (Catalan for 'the sunny slope') produce pitiful yields, but the wines derived from them, made with minimal intervention and never released until they are ready to drink, offer mineral-inflected intensity, elegance and precision, as well as exceptional ageing-potential.
The estate has built its reputation on its exceptional white wines, considered some of the finest in the South of France; the Rouge, however, should never be overlooked. The current release, the 2014 vintage, is almost equal-parts Syrah and Carignan, with 24% Grenache Noir - an alluring, complex, herb-scented wine which speaks eloquently of its mountainous origins. At almost 9 years of age, it is still fresh, almost youthful, with tense acidity and ripe tannin framing the palate, a superb testament to one of Europe's finest terroirs. /JH
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately