As anyone who's visited knows - and we know that plenty of you have - there's a lot to like about Meerlust. In the hands of the Myburgh family since 1756, making it by far the oldest family-owned wine estate in South Africa, Meerlust's reputation has long been high, and not just for the wines. There's a pervading sense of good about the place; the 32 staff enjoy a share of the profits and the rate of turnover is low. The family invests in the community through a family trust and through the Meerlust Foundation.
The estate made its name with Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1970s. The dream then was to make a great Bordeaux blend. But when Chris Williams returned as cellarmaster in 2004 (he was assistant winemaker from 1995 to 2000) he decided that the goal should be to make a great South African wine, not a great Bordeaux imitation. In May last year Chris hosted a tasting of selected Rubicon vintages back to 1991 and the progression in style was abundantly clear. With the vines reaching full maturity, and a long, cool growing season, he feels that the recently released 2009 is the finest vintage of Rubicon to date. Having tasted it again last Friday, I recommend putting a case or two away for at least 5 years and then drinking it over the following 10.
Chris is intelligent, erudite, inquisitive. He's a thinker. When he talks, people listen, and the wines he makes are all worth discovering. These include The Foundry - Chris's own label - which he's permitted to make at Meerlust. 'Purity, focus and distinction,' are Chris's words. 'Vinous' and 'bargains' are mine, thanks to his impressively modest pricing. /AR
2009 Rubicon: 'Sensational, indisputably great vintage of venerable cab-dominated (70%) Bordeaux blend. Indulgently plush, with dark fruit that easily absorbs & integrates the oak influence (65% new) to produce an impressively complex, densely structured & promising masterpiece. 4.5 stars.' - Dave Swingler, Platter's Wine Guide 2015
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately