The 'opulent, ravishing, fruit-driven' 2018s
An impressive line up of 2018 Vintage Ports, remarkably consistent, hence the lack of wide divergence in my scores. I will let the tasting notes speak for themselves, though generally the warm growing season yielded quite opulent, ravishing, fruit-driven wines that display much finer tannins and purity than those of the past. - Neal Martin, vinous.com
Last April, Adrian Bridge declared 2018 Taylor's Port. It has just been released. Adrian said, 'Although a Classic declaration normally only happens about three times a decade, the exceptional run of years has meant that Taylor's has been able to make a third in a row. This is very unusual but our principle is that we declare a Classic Vintage when the quality is there. This is dictated by the year, not by any other consideration.' For a particularly staid and conservative part of the trade to do this indicates a real confidence in the quality of the wines, which was completely vindicated by the critics. For Taylor's, a 2018 declaration was especially irresistable as their homeground in the Douro Superior overperformed so spectacularly. Some of you will have met head winemaker David Guimaraens in the shop. Speaking about 2018, he notes the Douro Superior 'enjoyed the combination of intense summer heat and abundant ground water which often produces great Vintage Port.'
2018 was a vintage of extremes. Winter was very dry, technically drought conditions but Spring was very wet, so a lot of work was needed in the vineyards. The Summer was a series of heatwaves, all of which accords with the 'new normal' of climate change so far. Picking began at the beginning of September and lasted almost a month except for a break for some much needed rain three weeks in, which improved the balance and ripeness of the grapes. The best performing vines were the Touriga Franca this year and yields were low compared to what is expected.
I was extremely impressed when I tasted these. The Fonseca Guimaraens was first into the tasting glass and the lively aromas were immediate with black plums, figs, floral aromas and dark fruits. In the mouth it's bold but with fine tannins; an immensely attractive wine that's hard to resist and a wine that's crying out to be shared with mates. Quinta do Roeda is more assertive with a more obvious structure and more textured tannins, masses of dark fruit and still showing its alcohol a little at this stage. It struck me as a braw Port and I immediately saw Aubrey and Maturin drinking it on a quarterdeck. Then the Taylor's. Perfumed, complex, all silky richness, yet with a mineral core, backbone but so seductive and dangerously inviting even now. It is just gorgeous. But you should try and wait a few years, just, as Neal Martin says, no need to leave it to the next generation. /CW
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Winter 2021
