With Vinexpo now behind us the Bordelais are back at their desks. Yesterday kicked off with Rouget. This Pomerol property has been hugely improved since the Burgundian Labruyere family took over back in 1992. It has been a long process, involving complete replanting, the construction of proper winemaking facilities and conversion to biodynamics. The Labruyeres have also brought a Burgundian touch to the winemaking here; in common with super sought-after Carmes Haut-Brion, they use whole-bunch fermentation. It brings an extra bit of lift to the wine. All this makes Rouget one of the better values in Pomerol.
Also yesterday, Latour-Martillac, where the fruit for the red was so good that 60% of it went into the first wine. Owner Tristan Kressman says the 2018 most resembles the 2010. We think it's the best value classed growth in the Graves, and in the words of Antonio Galloni an 'unusually sumptuous Latour-Martillac' and 'arrestingly beautiful'. The day rounded off with two highly rated right banks - Pomerol's Clos L'Eglise and St-Emilion's La Gaffeliere.
This morning we have the excellent St Julien, Lagrange, which the chateau is calling 'the most generous ever'. Galloni likes it too; he calls it 'off the charts', 'one of the best recent vintages I have tasted'. /NT
Offered subject to confirmation; for shipment 2021