Piedmont's most f
Is it the effect of old vines grown on favoured sites? Or the almost fanatical approach to nature, biodiversity, vineyard health? Could it be the uber-traditional cellar regime - the very long, very gentle extractions that can last 70-100 days? Or is it the relaxed approach to aging that sees these wines released a year later than their peers? Whatever it is, the results are clear; exquisite wines, among Piedmont's most favoured. Wines of character, depth, beauty, persistence.
The Roagnas have been here since before Barbaresco was recognised as a wine style - in fact, they were instrumental at its birth. Alfredo and Luca Roagna represent the fourth and fifth generations of winemakers in the family; in the late 1800s, their great-grandfathers were part of a small group of pioneers who began making Barbaresco as we know it today. The generations of accumulated experience tell in the wines - tasting their Barbarescos is like working through a flavour map of the region. Gallina is soft, fragrantly perfumed, floral, terribly fine; Albesina is brighter, racier, more intense, a basket of roses and raspberries. Paje is emphatic, powerful, full of depth. Faset is different again, from an exposed site directly overlooking the Tanaro River, 'air-conditioned' (as Luca jokes) by the prevailaing Alpine winds. Muscular, sinewy, at this stage it remains austere, yet will deeply reward patience.
From their beginnings in Barbaresco, the Roagnas have also over the years established footholds in Barolo, and their Barolos are no less special. Barolo di Barolo seduces with delicate rose petal aromas and very silky tannins; La Pira (a Roagna monopole) has soaked up the generous 2015 vintage, and bursts with fresh summer fruits. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2021