The triumph of modernism
Scavino's elegant take on the superlative 2013 Barolo vintage
Modernism in Barolo can be misunderstood. But do not think that the wines of Scavino, which are typically classified as modernist, are anything but elegant. From the village Barolo through the Carobric blend of crus, to the crus themselves, these wines have enormous character. Their complexity comes from the terroirs, the Nebbiolo and fastidious vineyard and cellar work.
Although the estate was founded in 1921, it was Enrico, the third generation, who really started the drive to make better quality wine. In the 1950s he began to be concerned with the quality of tannins in Barolo - even today they can be difficult for lesser producers to manage. After many experiments with different barrels, in 1993 he was among the first in Barolo to invest in rotary fermenters, which exclude the aggressive seed tannins from the tank and extract the noble tannins from the skins.
Maturation takes place in their rather Tardis-like cellars. Only barriques are used for the first year, with a third of them new. Enrico and his daughters Enrica and Elisa know that a short time in barrique is important for a long life, but they don't want to overdo it. Enrica and Elisa are now in day-to-day charge of the vineyards and cellar and have seen two large cellar expansions, first in 2003 and secondly in 2016, with the aim of permitting smaller and more detailed vinifications, so they can make the best possible wine from their 20 or so plots. /CW
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available autumn 2017
