Domaine Felettig has an origin story you hear time and again across Burgundy (and more broadly, across much of France and viticultural Europe). Grape cultivators gradually become landowners in their own right, and sent their grapes to the village co-op until someone (in this case, Henri Felettig) took the dramatic decision to begin estate bottling. Over time, family holdings increased. In 1993, the next generation took over, with Gilbert handling the winemaking and his sister Christine administering the domaine.

So far, so traditional. Gilbert had a watershed after the 2009 vintage, which was the last he made in the old, oaky, rather extractive style. He didn’t like those wines. Since then, he has transformed vineyard management, doesn’t pick so late, selects the fruit more rigorously and has dialled back the oak. Cellar work is gentler than it used to be. As a result, the domaine has enjoyed a meteoric rise in its reputation. The wines are supple and structured, precise, with fine tannins and clear terroir delineation. (NT 09/08/23)