Fizz, fire and ash
At 37 km², the Aeolian island of Lipari is not huge. Sicily is 30 km away. With dramatic views over to the neighbouring island of Vulcano, the island that named the geology, it’s no surprise to learn that Lipari’s soils are very volcanic. In prehistoric times, the main export was obsidian; nowadays, it is capers. But the island also produces some very fine wines.
Tenuta di Castellaro is all about the winemaking heritage of Lipari; recovered sites, and a mix of old vines and new plantings. They make wine from indigenous varieties naturally suited to the volcanic soils. All their vineyards are cultivated according to the albarello method, traditional also on Mount Etna; high-density, head-trained bush vines.
In winemaking terms, if it is known for anything, Lipari is most known for the sweet passito wines made from the local Malvasia delle Lipari grape. Tenuta di Castellaro make an excellent example, balancing succulent honey and sherbet notes with a freshening acidity. But it was the dry Porticello that really caught the “heart and palate” of Julia Harding on jancisrobinson.com recently - “a heart-winning, intense dry white”. The Porticello blends crisp, stern Carricante with generous, grapey Moscato for a tangy, mouthwatering, exuberant finale. Also in the range is another excellent dry white, Pomice, a blend of Carricante and Malvasia delle Lipari. This is a much more mineral expression of the volcanic soils. And then there is their smoky, salt-and-pepper Corinto – full of fruit, this is also the most saline, maritime red wine I have come across. If you’re ever looking for a red wine to go with fish, this is it. /NT
And, as we've just done an offer on it, we'll be showing Gallimard Champagne as well. Because we love to spoil you.
