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  • The Bond wines sit side-by-side with Bill Harlan’s lofty ambition to create a Napa Valley first-growth at Harlan Estate. Bond is an exploration of the diversity of the very best of Napa terroir, as expressed through Cabernet Sauvignon. The name Bond evokes the long-term alliance between the owners, growers and winemakers who have combined to made it possible. Vecina comes from east-facing terraces that get the full morning sun and a bracing dose of San Pablo Bay wind. On the other side of the valley, St Eden is from iron-rich volcanic soils, and tends towards the more opulent and exotic.

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    Between LA and San Francisco, Santa Barbara County may not yet be as well known in wine terms as Napa or Sonoma, but it is an area very fast on the rise. It is already home to some extremely distinguished vineyards and wineries. It’s a diverse place, too; the eastern inland reaches are hotter and are most known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, while the west excels at cool climate, ocean-influenced Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

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    Site selection, low yields, native yeasts, grapes grown from well-established vines on east-facing volcanic hillsides - Cristom gets everything right. From beginnings thirty years ago in a derelict barn in the Eola-Amity hills, this has become one of Oregon`s premier wineries, producing top-flight Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It was the vision of Paul Gerrie, an engineer brave enough to throw over the day job to pursue a love of Pinot Noir.

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    From his cellar in Healdsburg, David Ramey sources fruit from some of the best vineyards up and down Napa and the Sonoma Coast. He spent sixteen years making wine in California before founding Ramey Wine Cellars; he`d been involved with a variety of prestigious estates, but it was during his stint at Dominus when owner Christian Moueix allowed him to make `a little Chardonnay on the side`. That was in 1996. By 2001 he had quit the day job and was dedicated full-time to Ramey Wine Cellars. Fast forward a bit more.

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    When Ehren Jordan set up Failla with his wife Anne-Marie (it`s her maiden name), he was set on becoming one of California`s self-styled Rhone Rangers. He worked in the Rhone, though it is in his role at Turley Wine Cellars that we know him best. His track record there is indisputable. He is an autodidact who has learned more by doing rather than academic study. However the emphasis very quickly shifted to the potential of cold climate Burgundy varieties.
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    Founded in 2001, Freeman Winery is the fruition of Ken and Akiko Freeman`s longstanding belief that California can produce Pinot Noir every bit as complex, age-worthy and eloquent as Burgundy`s best. Ken and Akiko visited 300 potential vineyard sites before settling on the redwood-ringed hillside estate they now occupy, just outside Sebastopol. They source fruit from some of the area’s best growers, from cool hillside sites in the Russian River Valley and remoter, rugged spots on Sonoma Coast.

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    Occasionally in this job I`m tasting a range of wines from a producer I`ve never heard of and very quickly, in wine after wine I`m asking myself - so how the heck did they do this? Previous experience of Washington State wines was entirely of the mega estate kind, so I wasn`t prepared for the intensity and the freshness of Gramercy`s wines - nor for their vivid flavours and the sheer energy present in the glass.
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    It`s still early days for Bill Harlan’s lofty, 200-year vision of a Californian First Growth. But since its first vintages, Harlan Estate has established itself among the very acme of world wines. On an exceptionally diverse set of soils (part sedimentary, part volcanic, all with thin topsoil and entirely exposed) in the western hills of Oakville, Harlan’s vines have been forced to burrow deep into the bedrock to survive.

  • It hasn`t always been plain sailing for Opus One. From its inception in 1978 the path to glory hasn`t always been a smooth or straight progression. Consistently on our shelves for many years, we finally paused in our relationship as quality dipped and the Mondavi family appeared to lose focus, while Philippine de Rothschild was kept at arm`s length and winemaking was done by committee. Things began to improve with the 2001 vintage, but of all the milestones in Opus One`s history the most significant must be Constellation Brands Inc`s purchase of Mondavi in 2004.
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    The history of Pulenta goes back to the arrival in 1902 of the splendid looking Angelo and Palmina from Ancona in Italy and this year the fifth Argentinian generation was born. Ten years ago saw the birth of the company in its present form, with many of the lesser vineyards sold off and the company - always excellent growers - now concentrating on producing their superb estate wines of different levels. They have two main vineyard sites about an hour, and slightly higher than Mendoza.

    Pulenta has a definite house style, or should I say determined influence on the wines they make.

  • Ridge is one of the defining names in American wine. High in the Santa Cruz Mountains, the Monte Bello Ridge was first terraced for winemaking in the nineteenth century. It was later abandoned, recovered in the 1940s by a group of amateurs, then famously developed from 1969 by Paul Draper. Draper unlocked the real potential of this extraordinary site, and under his tenure, Ridge Monte Bello was one of the wines on the winning team at the 1976 Judgement of Paris.

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    It`s all about the family at Shafer Vineyards. TD-9 may seem an odd name for their calling-card blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Malbec, but when you learn that it was the brand of tractor that John Shafer drove in 1973 when he boldly threw over his Chicago office job and decamped to Napa to start laying out a vineyard, it makes more sense. And what kind of a name is One Point Five for a classy Napa Cabernet? It stands for a generation and a half, the 35 years since John and his son Doug arrived at the foot of the Stag`s Leap Palisades.
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    Larry Turley is a man with a mission. He started off in the 1970s as the co-founder of Frog`s Leap Winery, making Cabernets and Chardonnays. But over time he came to understand his interests lay elsewhere. By the early 1990s, when Cabernet was king in California, Larry had realised that one of the state`s great viticultural treasures was in danger of being lost; old vine Zinfandel plantings, often predating prohibiton, sometimes on original, ungrafted rootstock.

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    No fuss, no drama might be the motto of twins Bob and Jim Varner and their eponymous winery tucked away in the Portola Valley. They’ve been planting vines there since the early eighties and receiving critical acclaim for just as long. Their techniques are simple, plant the best clones you can get, dry farm unfertilised impoverished soils and use no chemicals – they have insect controls rather than insecticide and hoe by hand instead of chemically cleansing their vineyards with soil deadening chemical blitzkriegs.

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