-
Bordeaux Producers
Name: Bordeaux
Pages
-
There is a party on the label of Clerc Milon and the property`s history over the last forty years certainly justifies a celebration. Rescued by Baron Philippe de Rothschold in 1970, the estate has been renovated in both vineyards and cellars, but the average age of the vines is still just over forty years. Because of a mixture of soils, the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon here is less than might be typical in Pauillac with good dollops of Cabernet Franc and even the now rare in Bordeaux Carmenere.
-
-
The chateau at Cos d’Estournel is an Oriental extravagance quite out of keeping with the conventional image of a Bordeaux chateau, to wit, a sedate, serene construction in cream-coloured limestone. Cos d’Estournel reflects the eccentricities and travel habits of its founder, Louis Gaspard d’Estournel, a wealthy young man of the Medoc who had acquired a small parcel of vines near the village of Cos and who, seeing great potential, resolved to create a wine of the stature of Lafite. -
-
-
-
Roederer`s stewardship of de Pez since they took it over in 1995 is a study in how to improve a property. They have had a long look at the mix of vine varieties and the soils and have tried to match them more precisely, planting more Merlot where appropriate. They have also changed the trellising arrangements for the vines to promote better and more even ripening, while in the cellar, retention of the wooden fermenting vats, now temperature controlled, and more attention to hygiene mean the wines are suppler, fruitier and somewhat more attractive when young. -
Of all the chateaux overlooked in the 1855 Bordeaux classification, few are as deserving as Margaux property Deyrem Valentin. It is well sited, on the same mix of gravel, sand and clay soils that underpin the appellation`s most prestigious addresses. The vines average 40 years old, and there is one parcel where some are almost 100, placing them among the Medoc’s very oldest. The consultant oenologist is Hubert de Bouard, owner of Chateau Angelus. As Jeff Leve notes on thewinecellarinsider, Deyrem Valentin competes with many classified growths for a lot less money.
-
-
Between Beychevelle to the north and Latour across the commune boundary to the south in Pauillac, and running almost down to the Gironde, sits one of the clutch of 5 St Julien second growths, Ducru-Beaucaillou. Beychevelle is in fact a parent of Ducru; in 1642, when the British were just getting going on the killing spree now referred to as the English Civil War, the Beychevelle estate was broken up to settle a debt, and one of the resulting parcels would become what is now Ducru-Beaucaillou. The name didn`t come till later.
-
Duhart-Milon is a stablemate of Lafite. The vineyards are adjacent, with the same fine gravels and black sands over a bedrock of limestone, but Duhart lies on lower ground with a more northerly exposure. Once upon a time, it was made as the second wine of Lafite, and for even longer it remained in Lafite`s shadow. But it has evolved an identity all its own, under its own technical team since 2001, and it has gone from strength to strength over the last two decades. It used to be marked by a certain youthful austerity, but is typically richer these days.
-
Durfort-Vivens had a good 19th century. The 1844 was priced higher than any other Margaux wine except Chateau Margaux itself. Commentator, wine connoisseur and future American president Thomas Jefferson rated Durfort-Vivens alongside Lafite, Latour and Margaux. The 1855 classification placed it as a second growth. Things weren’t so good through most of the 20th century. In the 1930s, it was bought by Margaux and used to make that chateau’s second wine. In the 1960s, it was sold on to the Lurton family, but without its chateau.
-
-
-
At only eight hectares, Ferriere is positively titchy by Bordeaux standards. Claire Villars is in charge, who runs La Gurgue and Haut-Bages-Liberal, both of which we like very much. The estate has excellent terroir, being situated on several plots of deep gravel and the wines have always tended towards the muscular end of Margaux in a similar way to La Gurgue and are immensely satisfying. To all intents and purposes Ferriere can be considered a `new` property, having been rescued from the clutches of Lascombes and only produced its first vintage from new cellars in 1992. -
A visit to Feytit-Clinet is so unlike a visit to most Bordeaux chateaux. It’s not a castle or a stately home, nor are you filtered past receptionists or along mirrored halls. In fact, it’s much more like a visit to Burgundy where the owner stomps out from round the back in welly boots, kicking their kids` toys out of the way as they go. Jeremy Chasseuil lives and works here, and has done since the year 2000 when he took over.
-
Figeac was one of the winners in the 2022 St-Emilion reclassification, and it now plays in the very top league. Premier Grand Cru Classe (A). It should probably have always been there, but never mind. It is one of the oldest properties in Bordeaux, with roots in the second century and the Roman Figeacus family. (I know that sounds like it comes from the Life of Brian, but it’s for real, and there are Gallo-Roman remains on the property). The Manoncourt family arrived in 1892, and remain here to this day.
-
-
Pomerol estate Gazin has a full 19 hectares of vines on the plateau, more than any other winery in the appellation, all in one single block. It also commands the appellation’s highest point, next to Pétrus, at just over 40 metres. The vineyard is planted to 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, though the proportion of Cabernets is set to increase in response to climate change. (NT 12/05/25)
-
Having made it as a third growth in the 1855 classification, Chateau Giscours began a period of graceful decline that lasted almost a century and a half, before being arrested by the ownership of Nicolas Tari and his money. Even then things did not go smoothly with someone putting oak chips into the second wine Sirene de Giscours in the late nineties. That is in the past, however and so moving on, we find Giscours under new owner Dutchman Eric Albada Jelgersma finally achieving the sort of quality that a third growth with this sort of terroir should. -
At one point in its history a 250 hectare estate, Grand Mayne now has just 19ha under vine, but they are beautifully sited on the clay limestone slopes for the most part, with some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon on the sandy soil at the foot of the hill. Viticulture, though not organic, is concentrated on making the vines work hard for their nutrition and to put their roots deep to pick up necessary minerals and water. A precautionary green harvest is carried out when appropriate and harvest and sorting are by hand. -
With history building an ownership of three main shareholders, an estate of vineyards split into three distinct plots across Pauillac and the Chateau itself unusually sited in the town docks, Ducasse prospers. Possibly despite the complicated nature of the enterprise. Those three vineyard plots are of fine and homogeneous terroir, all brilliantly sited on deep gravel mounds with some really old vines as well as some more recent replantings as part of the large and ongoing investments.
-
Of the two Pauillac properties whose names begin Grand-Puy, it is Grand-Puy-Lacoste that enjoys rather more prestige over Grand-Puy-Ducasse. Turn the clock back to the 1855 classification of the Medoc, though, and they were the same property, Grand Puy. It was awarded fifth-growth status, a distinction both the successor chateaux still hold. But that feels like a sad undervaluing of Grand-Puy-Lacoste, a property that regularly puts many second-growths to shame.
-
1855 second growth Gruaud-Larose is very much one of the grander estates in Saint-Julien. It occupies a high point on the Medoc plateau and I can attest it gets windy there; that wind serves to dry the vines and help prevent vine infections. The modernistic viewing tower that divides opinion and stands in angular contrast to the classical chateau does enjoy some far-reaching views of the Medoc.
-
Horribly underperformed in the nineties, but under the brilliant Francois Despagne, an oenology professor and superb viticulturalist, and with Dominique Thienpoint at the sales helm, this is one property that is sure to come to greater prominence. We were very impressed with the silky tannins and black cherry fruit. An ideal buy for those wishing to get in on the ground floor!/CW
