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Burgundy/Beaujolais Producers
Name: Burgundy/Beaujolais
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Etienne certainly compares the 2008 vintage to 1993, citing the very similar vegetative cycles in both summers. And to reinforce that he gave us a 1993 Richebourg to taste at the end of our visit.Still needing time, obviously, this was still a majestic wine, with masses of fruit and development. The 2008s were the main event here and together with a mystery Russian and his PA, we tasted (the Russian drank) through the range. The overall impression was of suppleness and energy in the wines. They were all full of gas, but the wines here spend two winters in cask.
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Frederic Lafarge has established Domaine Lafarge-Vial in the charming, dramatic village of Fleurie. The wines are vinified back in Volnay, but Frederic was keen to tell me the fruit here demands a different approach; he vinifies his Fleurie with 30% whole cluster, which brings a more expressive, aromatic style. /NT
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When Jacques Seysses bought the domaine that was to become the eponymous `du jac` in the sixties and then buying some top plots who would have thought that Dujac would become such an influential player in the region.
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Domaine Felettig has an origin story you hear time and again across Burgundy (and more broadly, across much of France and viticultural Europe). Grape cultivators gradually become landowners in their own right, and sent their grapes to the village co-op until someone (in this case, Henri Felettig) took the dramatic decision to begin estate bottling. Over time, family holdings increased. In 1993, the next generation took over, with Gilbert handling the winemaking and his sister Christine administering the domaine.
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What can one say about Francois that won`t be misinterpreted? Capricious, fey, self-deprecating, tiny, dedicated, giggly as hell, slightly anxious about his wines, says pfff more often than any other Frenchman I`ve ever met, crafter of brilliant Chambolle. I`m not sure he ever wanted to be a winemaker, but he`s a bloody good one. (CW 14/03/14)
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Anytime that a book or report on Burgundy arrives, I can imagine the conversation over the Lumpp breakfast table. `Nice review for your wines, dear.` `Did they say my wines are solid, workmanlike and ambitious Givrys, dear?` `Of course, dear, well done.` Frustrating though that must be, it is at least part of the truth. There is also perfume and depth and great pleasure to be had from these excellent value wines. In 2009 the Domaine was our first visit and got us off to a flying start. Silky tannins and vivid acidity underpinned the fresh and complex fruit.
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Francois Raquillet is a typical modern Burgundian. He retains many strong links to the past but is constantly searching to improve his wines, either through better vineyard work or in the cellar. Blessed with a lot of old vines, he strives to keep yields fairly low, makes full use of a sorting table - which means throwing away a lot of fruit - and in the end the results are fruit-driven, pure wines that see a maximum of 30% new oak and are unobscured by it. Overall the style is robust but perfumed with well done tannins in the reds and dense, herby, citrussy whites.