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Burgundy/Beaujolais Producers
Name: Burgundy/Beaujolais
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One of Burgundy’s most celebrated domaines. It began with Jacques Seysses, who had apprenticed with Gerard Potel at Domaine de la Pousse d’Or. In 1967, Jacques bought a small domaine in Morey-St-Denis and named it after himself – ‘du Jac’. (Geddit?) His first vintage was the terrible 1968, and he sold it off in bulk. But 1969 was a great success, and that vintage put Dujac on the map. The domaine began to grow with the opportunistic acquisition of some great parcels.
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Domaine Felettig has an origin story you hear time and again across Burgundy (and more broadly, across much of France and viticultural Europe). Grape cultivators gradually become landowners in their own right, and sent their grapes to the village co-op until someone (in this case, Henri Felettig) took the dramatic decision to begin estate bottling. Over time, family holdings increased. In 1993, the next generation took over, with Gilbert handling the winemaking and his sister Christine administering the domaine.
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What can one say about Francois that won`t be misinterpreted? Capricious, fey, self-deprecating, tiny, dedicated, giggly as hell, slightly anxious about his wines, says pfff more often than any other Frenchman I`ve ever met, crafter of brilliant Chambolle. I`m not sure he ever wanted to be a winemaker, but he`s a bloody good one. (CW 14/03/14)
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Anytime that a book or report on Burgundy arrives, I can imagine the conversation over the Lumpp breakfast table. `Nice review for your wines, dear.` `Did they say my wines are solid, workmanlike and ambitious Givrys, dear?` `Of course, dear, well done.` Frustrating though that must be, it is at least part of the truth. There is also perfume and depth and great pleasure to be had from these excellent value wines. In 2009 the Domaine was our first visit and got us off to a flying start. Silky tannins and vivid acidity underpinned the fresh and complex fruit.
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Francois Raquillet is a typical modern Burgundian. He retains many strong links to the past but is constantly searching to improve his wines, either through better vineyard work or in the cellar. Blessed with a lot of old vines, he strives to keep yields fairly low, makes full use of a sorting table - which means throwing away a lot of fruit - and in the end the results are fruit-driven, pure wines that see a maximum of 30% new oak and are unobscured by it. Overall the style is robust but perfumed with well done tannins in the reds and dense, herby, citrussy whites.
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It’s partly the fine winemaking, and partly the low availability, and partly the fact that the holdings here are a focussed range of fine Chambolle, but the wines of Domaine Barthod are among the most sought-after we have to divide up en primeur. Even the Bourgogne Rouge (labelled as ‘Les Bons Batons’ in some markets) is a hot ticket, well beyond what you would expect from a Bourgogne Rouge at most addresses. It ages well, and in most vintages it will only be getting into its stride when others of its level have faded.
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