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Burgundy/Beaujolais Producers
Name: Burgundy/Beaujolais
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Marcel Moreau originally developed this domaine in the 1960s. His son Bernard Moreau took over in 1982, pioneering estate bottling and the separation of the various premier crus into individual cuvees. However, it was when Bernard’s sons Alex and Benoit arrived in the early 2000s that Domaine Bernard Moreau really began to acquire a serious following. Alex handled the winery, Benoit managed the vineyards, and Bernard Moreau became known for some stunning wines in a very contemporary white Burgundian idiom. bright, tense, mineral, and full of energy.
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We saw Antoine Jobard this year for a change. He is gradually taking over more responsibility for the wines. The wines had just been racked and put onto their fine lees for the second winter in cask. The `07 harvest was finished in early September and the grapes came in with a high malic content, which will stand them in good stead from a structural point of view, and the natural alcohol was around 13%. The ripeness of the fruit combined with the high acid levels means that the wines are balanced and have good richness. -
Cyprien Arlaud has the natural confidence of a man at the top of his game. He has been making the wines at Domaine Arlaud since 2001 and, as he sees it, he is now reaping the benefits of his early switch to organics, followed swiftly by biodynamics. He also puts in prodigious amounts of work in the vineyard, and the domaine employs considerably more vineyard workers than any of the near neighbours.
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Tasting over the last few years I have never been in any doubt that Ballot-Millot is one of the finest white wine domaines in the Cote de Beaune. From his cellars in Meursault, Charles Ballot fashions a set of wines that invariably brim with verve, tension and energy. He is the 15th generation of his family to front the domaine, so perhaps it shouldn’t be too surprising that he knows what he is doing. Nor he is afraid to innovate; his wines are very much in the modern mode, lean and elegant, with a deliberate touch of reduction.
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Stéphane Tissot – at the domaine named after his parents, André et Mireille Tissot – has become the world’s most widely-known ambassador for the wines of Jura. This small, mountainous region looks across the Saône Valley to Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, but has its own very distinctive vinous heritage and traditions.
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From a village that is often not taken as seriously as it should be comes Christophe Coillot, who takes his wine very seriously indeed. And yet his wines are fun, in a way you don`t often find. They`re fun because of the classic, silky textures, the balance and the well judged structures, but above all else because of the fruit. 90% of the domaine is organic, and no herbicides or pesticides are used, with instead lots of hard work done by hand. -
The Dugats trace their Burgundy lineage back 13 generations now that Loïc has joined. Bernard Dugat worked his first vintage in 1975 and having married Jocelyne Py in 1979 renamed the Domaine to reflect this in 1994. Dugat-Py isn’t just an historic Domaine, it is a very traditional one too. Work in the vineyards is absolutely meticulous with 10 employees in the vines making sure that the health of these old plants – average 65 years – is top notch. The Domaine has been certified organic since 2003, though Loïc has gradually been introducing more elements of biodynamie.
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Amelie Berthaut is one of the leading lights among a new generation of growers, and since she took over in 2012, she has turned a relatively obscure family domaine into a hot property. She is also credited with putting her home village of Fixin back on the map; while it was widely overlooked until recently, in the 19th century Fixin was considered to have parts the equal of Gevrey-Chambertin. Amelie inherited an impressive array of vineyards from her parents, and has since managed to expand her reach further.
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Best known as the brains behind Hudelot-Noellat, Charles van Canneyt is so much more than a pretty face. As well as producing extremely fine and well balanced wines from his own family vineyards, he has begun a micro-negoce business in order fo fill some of the gaps in the family range and also to be able to satisfy demand for his wines. He even has some whites. Because of the way Burgundy is organised (I use the term loosely), it is quite possible to get hold of quite grand fruit, but it will cost you, so these aren`t necessarily the cheapest wines, but they are stunning.
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Berliquet can seem like a relative newcomer. In fact it is an historic estate, but one whose grapes for generations were sent to the local co-op. In-house bottling did not begin till 1978, and so, despite the excellent location, it wasn’t even classified till 1986. Nicolas Audebert freely admits that when the Wertheimer brothers acquired Berliquet in 2017, the intention had been to roll the vineyards into their neighbouring Chateau Canon.
