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    The defining estate in Nuits-St-Georges. One hundred years after Henri Gouges returned from the First World War and became a pioneer of domaine bottling and a champion of the region, Gouges are going strong. The stewardship of Henri’s great-grandsons Greg and Antoine is winning round a new generation of fans, and these two cousins have had a cracking fifteen years in charge.

  • Our biggest new discovery of November 2019 was in Gevrey. The tasting at Henri Magnien completely bowled us over; we found intense, expressive wines, that were beautifully textured and bountifully aromatic. We decided on the spot we had to have them. This is another domaine with a lot of history behind it - the Magniens go back to 1656, and the affable Charles Magnien, who took over a decade ago, represents no less than the twelfth generation here. Not only do they have some fantastic sites with old vines, they even have their very own clone of Pinot Noir.
  • Hubert Lamy continues to produce wines that are equal parts genius and bonkers. We refer to them as the Cotat of St-Aubin. Who else would plant as many as 30,000 vines per hectare, risking the wrath of the appellation authorities just to see if it makes better wine? It does, by the way!
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    Thank goodness the Chauvenet estate isn`t just a few pocket handkerchief size bits of land scattered round the region, because this is another address where the yields are falling year on year at the moment. Despite this, Christophe still has wine to sell. A witty but reserved man with an appealing combination of confidence and humility, his wines, which in some respects pay homage to Henri Jayer, though less obtrusively oaked, continue in the ageworthy mould.

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    The thirtieth of October 2008. A milestone in my wine education, because the day was bookended by visits to and tastings with Fourrier and Grivot. My Burgundy obsession is shamefully recent, but even I have verticals of Fourrier wines going back to 2001, three years after Jean-Marie, whose evil twin is Rafa Benitez, began making the great strategic decisions that have taken him close to the top of the league in Burgundy.
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    Over the last twenty years, Benoit Droin has shown an ever more adroit hand, reaffirming Droin`s place in the region`s top tier. In his time in charge he has dialled back on the new oak his father introduced, switched all fermentations to indigenous yeast and, after extensive experimentation, moved to Diam closures for all cuvees - he believes these are a better guarantee of quality and longevity. With an impressive array of crus his wines constitute a fascinating flavour map of Chablis terroir. /NT

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