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Jadot is a producer of two faces. On the one hand they are one of Burgundy`s largest and most prolific negociant producers, whose wines appear in supermarkets and high street chains in many countries. On the other, they own and farm plots and monopoles in some of the region`s most desirable real estate. Their iconic leader on the winemaking front is Jacques Lardiere, who - shockingly - is obsessed with terroir, rather than easy drinking fruit. His concerns are much taken up with the rock under the soil and making wines with as little intervention as possible.
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At Domaine Marc Colin, Damien and his sister Caroline are making some seriously good, high-energy wine. The domaine dates back to the 1970s, and was built from the ground up by Marc Colin and his wife Michele, from vineyards that had been in their families for generations. Two of Marc’s four children have since gone their own ways, taking their share of family vineyards; so Pierre-Yves left to start Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, and Joseph left to start Domaine Joseph Colin. Damien and his sister Caroline stayed in control of Marc Colin.
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Méo-Camuzet is an unrecognisable Domaine from what it was thirty years ago and Jean-Nicolas is evolving in harmony. In the early eighties the Méo family were more or less running the estate as absentee landlords. Jean-Nicolas said that at that time Vosne was a holiday home. They had some exceptional vineyards and some more than decent tenants though, especially one Henri Jayer. Changes to French laws meant essentially that the family had to start farming their own land or would have to sell it - not an appealing prospect.
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Michel Gros went straight from Beaune Viticultural High School in 1975 to work with his father Jean in the family wine business. He is the 6th generation of the Gros family to make wine since his Great, Great, Great Grandfather settled in Vosne-Romanee in 1830. At one stage the family owned 2 ha of Richebourg and 3 ha of Echezeaux, since diluted amongst descendents. After receiving his own parcel of 2 ha from his father in 1979, Michel continued to acquire various parcels in Burgundy while simultaneously looking after the family business.
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Auditioning to be a location in the last Harry Potter opus, the atmospheric, black mould-covered cellar with its low ceiling houses some of the best wines of the area. Lafarge is undoubtedly one of the finest Cote de Beaune producers. They craft pure and understated wines, real terroir-driven Burgundy, made as it always has been without any great fuss or marketing noises. Only 20% new oak is used on many of the wines as purity of fruit is vital to the operation.
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At Michel Niellon, they work in a slightly richer style, making ripe and concentrated wines that still retain precision and elegance. The domaine has a massive following in the USA but we have managed to claw some back for the UK! These days, Niellon is managed by Michel Niellon`s son-in-law Michel Coutoux and his grandson Matthieu Bresson. Fermentations take place in stainless steel before the wines are transferred to barrique, 20-30% new, for malolactic fermentation and ageing. These are wines that develop well, into highly sought after wines.
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Jacqueson remains one of the very best domaines in the Chalonnaise, and has a huge domestic following; their wines adorn the list of many of France`s finest restaurants. Based in the village of Rully, the domaine is these days managed by third-generation sister and brother team Marie and Pierre. It`s no wonder the Jacquesons` wines are so good; their fruit come from wonderfully-sited vineyards which they only work by hand, using minimal treatments. Cellar work follows a low-intervention regime, with the judicious use of new oak.
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It’s hard to avoid the Colin family when you are in Chassagne-Montrachet. Philippe Colin was born into the Colin-Deleger estate, and when his parents retired, Philippe split the vines with his brother Bruno. He set up his own domaine in 2004, out of modern premises on the outskirts of Chassagne-Montrachet. He has always aimed for a style of wine which is elegant and subtle rather weighty and powerful.