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  • Christian Moreau

    Fabien Moreau says his goal is to make `the most classical Chablis possible` - and the way to achieve that is `through a balance between ripeness and tension`. Domaine Christian Moreau was only officially constituted in 2002, but in reality is the culmination of six generations of work and history. Quality is always outstanding here, and the wines offer the epitome of the `oyster shell` character habitually attributed to Chablis; they are mineral and intense, tangy, structured, sometimes austere but always elegant.

  • Comte Armand

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    Thanks to the Australian government, who vetoed his visa after the French started nuclear testing in the Pacific, the young but highly experienced Benjamin Leroux stayed in France in 1999 and ended up at Comte Armand, where he had done some work experience. This is a young man in a hurry and the changes to this 7.5 ha property came fast. The first was to move to a completely biodynamic culture and picking at phenolic ripeness. Less extraction than previous regimes and a post-fermentation maceration have softened what were, for many, tough wines with little grace.

  • Denis Mortet

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    Arnaud Mortet, his sister Clemence and their mother Laurence make a close and formidable team, dexterously managing the multitude of small plots at this top family domaine. In Arnaud’s words. ‘Before being made in the cellar, the wine is made in the vineyard with supple and impeccable soils, which allow the vines to take root deeply. I thank my father and my grandfather who understood all this a long time ago’. They gave up on most chemicals long ago, and rely on indigenous yeast in the winery.

  • Domaine de la Chaponne

    Laurence and Laurent Guillet are the guardians of some of what is arguably Beaujolais` greatest terroir. Beaujolais isn`t a terroir wine in most people`s eyes, but the wines produced here have an energy and a minerality that makes them exceptional. The Cote de Py is the bit of decomposed granite that produces these extraordinary wines and combined with careful husbandry transforms an often overlooked and sometimes leaden grape (Gamay) into vinous gold. It`s alchemy, I tell you. (CW 24/06/14)

  • Domaine de la Madone

  • Domaine de la Renardiere

  • Domaine des Lambrays

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    Morey-St-Denis is a fine bit of the Cote d`Or that flies under the radar of many people, overshadowed by Gevrey and Nuits, amongst others. Perhaps it was because in 1936, when they were handing down the Grand and Premier Cru classifications that the then owner refused GC status in case he had to pay more tax! Clos des Lambrays has found its place since then of course. And under Thierry Brouin has a director of immense prowess and great humility too.

  • Domaine du Roc des Boutires

  • Domaine Jean Grivot

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    Etienne certainly compares the 2008 vintage to 1993, citing the very similar vegetative cycles in both summers. And to reinforce that he gave us a 1993 Richebourg to taste at the end of our visit.Still needing time, obviously, this was still a majestic wine, with masses of fruit and development. The 2008s were the main event here and together with a mystery Russian and his PA, we tasted (the Russian drank) through the range. The overall impression was of suppleness and energy in the wines. They were all full of gas, but the wines here spend two winters in cask.

  • Domaine Lafarge-Vial

    Frédéric Lafarge has established Domaine Lafarge-Vial in the charming, dramatic village of Fleurie. The wines are vinified back in Volnay, but Frédéric was keen to tell me the fruit here demands a different approach; he vinifies his Fleurie with 30% whole cluster, which brings a more expressive, aromatic style. /NT

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