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Cerbaiona is a name to conjure with in Montalcino. Tucked away in the eastern edge of the commune, this small, favoured estate has long produced some of the most sought-after of any Brunello, from only 3 hectares of old vines. It has been well-established at the head of the pack since the 1980s, but has a much longer history. There have been highly regarded vineyards on this site for hundreds of years - the name ‘Cerbaiona’ was known and sought after before anyone ever asked for a ‘Brunello’.
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Corte Sant`Alda is Marinella`s enterprise and she farms biodynamically to both protect the environment and to make intense but fresh and drinkable wines. Adalia is farmed organically; the intention here is to combine the healthiest possible farming together with affordability. Marinella considers biodynamics as the gold standard in both the vineyard and cellar but this is an expensive method of farming; Adalia was set up with her daughter to provide great wine at a good price. The farm buzzes with life. -
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The inimitable Domenico Clerico is perhaps not the first master Piedmont winemaker we feature that spring to mind at a moment`s notice. Domenico is a man who would probably have a short career in retail but he`d go down a storm on a City trading floor. One visitor who claimed to be something of an expert was given three samples at the start of his interview. After discussing the differences in the three terroirs apparent in the samples, Clerico showed him the identical bottles they had come from and terminated the appointment. -
It is Novello’s premier estate, and a rising star in Barolo - it also sits smack in the middle of the great Ravera cru. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous winery when he already had most of a lifetime’s experience making Barolo behind him; these days, the winery is very skilfully managed by his son-in-law Valter Fissore. Cascina Nuova is a glorious and approachable wine made from a selection of the youngest vines in Ravera; Barolo Ravera is the winery’s calling card, made from some particularly old vines.
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Thanks to the Alessandria family, the once under-the-radar village of Verduno has been firmly put on the map. While the family has been making fine Barolos here for five generations, quality has never been higher than now; under the stewardship of current incumbent Vittore Alessandria, the estate`s profile has soared. Vittore can seem like a pretty serious fellow, till he breaks into a huge smile and stops trying to hide the fact he loves what he`s doing. And he`s got reason to be pleased.
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Serralunga is the most south-easterly commune of Barolo, and Giovanni Rosso think of themselves as a Serralunga producer as much as a Barolo producer. The family has owned vineyards here since the 1890s, but only bottled under their own label since 1995. They still aren`t as well known as they deserve to be - as Jamie Goode writes, `While this isn`t one of the best known Barolo estates, it is one of the best`. Ambitious and upcoming he may be, but Davide Rosso, who took over in 2001, is no Barolo modernist. He works organically whenever possible. -
The one word to sum up Mascarello would be tradition. Established in 1881, it appears very little has moved on, both with the wines and the family. All the work is done in the vineyards with meticulous attention to detail and in the winery their philosophy has changed little over the last century. There is no chance of them following trends for new French oak or rotary fermenters; they continue to produce wine the only way they know how. In the winery (an old ice house) all the automated stainless steel tanks say ‘emergencia’ on them and even this is ignored!
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Il Poggione is one of the founding estates of the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium and has been selling wine since the early 1900s. The estate is still owned by the family, with Leopoldo and Livia Franceschi in charge these days. The day to day running is under the control of Fabrizio Bindocci, who has worked there since 1976 and is the current president of the Consortium.
