Bean and grape - kissing cousins 

Chocolate and wine tasting with Spencer Hyman from Cocoarunners

Both the cocoa bean and the grape are fussy about terroir, respond best to artisanal cultivation and need gentle and loving processing when they're harvested. Both rely on fermentation, for instance. Today we've got examples of the best of both cultivars presented by Spencer, specialist chocolate finder and nurturter of small, independent producers.

An old native American friend of mine delighted in matching wine and chocolate - to my horror in those days as he thought the chocolate would destroy the wine. Running Bear's mantra was 'Neil: you gotta sacrifice the wine on the altar of chocolate.' Which takes us neatly to the Incas. But there is more to chocolate than its use in ritual murder and rich savoury dishes. Though cocoa does accompany aged spirits beautifully: think single Malts, rum or Cognac.

And you probably think, as I used to, that chocolate has to go with rich, red wine. Not true as you'll see if you pop in this afternoon. We're going for some fairly racy wine-chocco combos, not to mention a cask sample of Niepoort's brilliant 2016 Bioma Vinha Velha port. NT