Fabien Moreau says his goal is to make `the most classical Chablis possible` - and the way to achieve that is `through a balance between ripeness and tension`. Domaine Christian Moreau was only officially constituted in 2002, but in reality is the culmination of six generations of work and history. Quality is always outstanding here, and the wines offer the epitome of the `oyster shell` character habitually attributed to Chablis; they are mineral and intense, tangy, structured, sometimes austere but always elegant. The domaine enjoys 12 hectares of vines across some very desirable sites, with a high grand cru presence and - most notably - the Hospices parcel in the Les Clos grand cru. (NT 25/01/21)