Rauzan-Segla, Feytit-Clinet, Brane, Laroque
Chanel's properties have been among the most acclaimed and most prized of recent vintages, yet the prices continue to be set so that the wines actually sell. Having taken charge in 2014, director Nicolas Audebert oversees entirely separate winemaking teams in Margaux and St-Emilion. At Rauzan-Segla, the grand vin escaped most of the frost damage since it comes mainly from what's known as terrace number 4, at 18 to 25 metres above sea level. Quality-wise, it's very close to its two predecessors while stylistically it most resembles the 2016. It's not far off Palmer and Chateau Margaux itself, which makes it the appellation's outstanding value for top-notch Margaux. We could have sold our allocations of the last two vintages of Canon several times over. The chateau feel that their 2017 is every bit as good as 2015 and 2016 and we don't disagree. We're endeavouring to divide up our allocation as fairly as possible but if you miss out, take a look at neighbouring Berliquet, which was acquired by Chanel just last year and is made by the same team.
We didn't need to taste the wine at Feytit-Clinet to realise that Jeremy Chasseuil had another success in his cellar: his demeanour said it all. Fisherman and oenologist, Jeremy is the real deal: down-to-earth, hands-on, a proper vigneron. He's transformed his family's 7 hectare property over the last 12 or 13 years but the price remains low. He didn't lose any fruit to the frost from his best plots and he was very happy with the growing season - a bit of hydric stress, but not too much, he said. The wine has the density of 2016 and is richer than 2014. Again, there's no finer value in Pomerol.
'A wine of real distinction and class, the 2017 Feytit-Clinet possesses tremendous intensity and exceptional balance. Inky black cherry, lavender, charred earth and licorice, along with potent tannins, give Feytit-Clinet its explosive rich personality. As always, Feytit-Clinet is an especially virile, tannic Pomerol. All the elements are wonderfully fused together. The 2017 was tremendous on each of the three occasions I tasted it. In a word: Superb.' - 93-96 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
Over in Margaux, you never know whether Henri Lurton is happy or not with Brane-Cantenac - he was even cautious on his (now stunning) 2009, saying only time would tell how good it was. There's no cause for concern with his '17: it's textbook Brane - cool, refined and precise.
Finally, an outstanding value in St-Emilion. Visitors to the shop may already be familiar with Laroque since we sell the 2012 vintage by the bottle. This grand cru classe is on a sharp upward trajectory with a wave of fresh investment. David Suire, who works with the team of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt, was hired in 2015 and the improvements he's making really show in the 2017: 'It may very well be the single most improved wine in St-Emilion over the last few years,' writes Antonio Galloni. /AR
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available 2020
