The NV Brut Rose (base 2020) is another wine that points to the progress Mathieu Roland-Billecart has made here in recent years. Pliant, creamy and super-expressive, this edition is striking. It has a good bit of textural richness and is fresher than the 2018 tasted alongside it. Of course, some of that may be as simple as time in bottle. Pomegranate and grapefruit are laced into the brisk, finely cut finish. This release is based on 2020, with 46% reserve wines back to 2014. Dosage is 4.7 grams per liter. Disgorged: second trimester 2023. 91 points

Bright coppery pink. A pretty strawberries-and-cream nose that leads straight to raspberries galore in the mouth. Blood orange, too, with a suggestion of tamarind chutney. Frankly fruity and frankly delicious. The balance is just right for food – in fact the wine was surprisingly good with a rich, slow-cooked pheasant red-wine casserole, and equally good with roasted tomato-and-courgette frittata the following day. 16.5 points